A Melbourne showcase.


 

With Victorian lockdown and travel restrictions finally receding last week the state took a collective sigh of relief. 10 months of isolation and prioritising only the most essential elements of life left little room for cultural expression and celebration, a void was developing. The ever-present challenges of the Melbourne fashion industry have been amplified with many stalwarts forced to re-evaluate their direction and indeed commitment to this passion that so grips us. But as the cold rains of a Melbourne night are forgotten with the sun of a Spring morning so has the recent Lastly Showcase dampened my fears of what is to come.

Lastly is an online dealer of highly curated artisan darkwear mostly sourced from Japan, the avant-garde vibes were understated but obvious from the outset. Staged on the second floor of an apparent art studio on Brunswick St forced a juxtaposition between local proto hipster throwback and the clean, sculpted pieces Lastly had to offer. We were greeted on Brunswick St by a Lastly employee who escorted us up the narrow staircase and into a display area that offered no distractions, it was obvious from the outset that this was a confident collection. Asahi in hand, the invitation to try, touch and feel the garments and accessories was a welcome icebreaker as many high-end outlets discourage this liberty (cough, Off-white). With 4 or 5 racks of garments divided by designer and a long table of accessories there was no sense of saturation, the devil was in the detail.

Boasting a select group of Japanese artisan designers including AF Artefact, Devoa, T.A.S, Wizzard and local silversmith Jess Blak this showcase demanded much from its patrons. With an almost exclusively black garment collection framed elegantly by a stark white room the artistic expression that is ‘cut and sew’ was on full display. Heavy seams, unique materials and inventive panelling were abundant and multiple trips around the racks were needed to take it all in with atmospheric house only adding to the vibe. (shoutout to the cat in the 3-piece fitted suit and glasses shuffling in the corner with maracas).

The invitation to try on the offerings was embraced and created a welcoming environment as the normal apprehensions that can accompany any designer showcase began to dissipate. Standouts for mine were the Bomber Heat Top and the Hoodie Poncho from AF Artefact as well as Crewneck Sweatshirt by Wizzard. Being a lover of all things “relaxed silhouette’ it was very hard to not indulge as every offering fit this description but at different ends of the spectrum. The street vibes were excellently captured by Wizzard and AF Artefact with Devoa taking inspiration from a more formal footing with silk lined jackets and bone buttons. The accessories and bags continued this aesthetic with the offerings from T.A.S being a standout in my eyes. Designer Tetsuya Ando’s creatively blends Brutalist principles and unique materials to produce understated pieces that can accentuate or eclipse most foundation garments. The H-Steel Necklace and Body Bag being absolute standouts and I’d be remiss if I did not mention the Ankā Amulet by Jess Blak, possibly the most elegant piece in the entire showcase.

The debate concerning pickups had raged in my mind for most of the day and with the shadows getting longer it was time to make a call. I eventually settled on the H-Steel Necklace by T.A.S and Wizzard Crewneck. Both items demanded attention both for design and substantial feel. The texture of a piece very often sways me and both of these items have a weightiness to them that not only adds to the overall hang and fit but also a reminder that the item itself holds a significance as a result of the creative process. As I write this now I can say I have barely taken the T.A.S necklace off.

From the perspective of a fashion fan and consumer, the LASTLY SHOWCASE was a success. The vibes were what one would expect from a higher-end designer showcase with out the pretence and snobbery that is often found at such an event. The owner/curator Karli Hancock was on hand to answer questions regarding her collection and her willingness to share her passion for Japanese darkwear was infectious. Karli and her team should be congratulated on a fantastic showcase in what is often a barren landscape in this, a very trying year.


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